When we started planning, we knew we were craving a change of pace. We wanted a trip that felt like a true adventure: something slightly challenging, but deeply rewarding.

Our Trip Wishlist - To narrow things down, we focused on a few key things that matter to us:

• Flexibility: We really love the freedom of a road trip. Rather than sticking to a fixed group schedule, we wanted the ability to pull over for a photo or a coffee whenever the mood struck.

• Slowing Down: We debated visiting several countries, but decided we didn’t want to rush. We preferred to pick one destination and really take the time to explore it thoroughly.

• Budget Control: We wanted the freedom to mix high and low. We love the idea of camping one night and treating ourselves to a lodge the next, which is harder to do with a pre-packaged tour.

Something New: It had to be a place completely new to us.

Why Namibia Won - We looked at East and West Africa, and even considered parts of Asia. But we kept coming back to Namibia. Years ago, a friend shared stories about flying bush planes across the region. Their descriptions of the raw, vast landscapes, not to mention the wildlife, stuck with us.

When we looked closer, Namibia checked every box:

• Solitude: It is the second least densely populated country on Earth. We loved the idea of wide-open spaces and quiet.

• The Drive: Namibia is famous for its road trips. The gravel roads are generally well maintained, making self driving not just possible, but a highlight of the experience.

• Variety & Safety: It felt safe, accessible, and offered an incredible mix of landscapes from ancient deserts to lush waterholes with rich diversity in flora and fauna in diverse and thriving ecosystems.

  

  The Surprise - We went into this thinking it was just another destination on our list. We quickly realized that Namibia is a place that gets under your skin and sticks with you. We are definitely going back!

  In the next series of posts, we’ll take you through every flat tire, sunset, and desert adapted elephant sighting. By the end, we’re pretty sure you’ll be looking up 4x4 rentals yourself (and we’ve got you covered!)

🐃 Leaving the Serengeti for Ngorongoro

After heavy rain overnight, we left the northern Serengeti early. The roads were rough, and we were tired with the kind of slow, accumulated fatigue you only feel after days of long drives and intense sensory input.

We spotted a baby giraffe and its mother, then a lion surprisingly close to tourists at the gate. It was a reminder of how blurred human <> animal boundaries have become (more on this in our Namibia posts, stay tuned!).

By the time we reached Ngorongoro Lodge, the hot shower felt like a small miracle. Buffalo grazed outside our tent. The air was cool and restorative.

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But it also revealed something else: the growing tension between conservation and tourism, and how quickly a place can shift from wilderness to something that feels uncomfortably close to a zoo.

This was the part of our trip that left us with mixed emotions - awe, gratitude, sadness, and a renewed understanding of our own travel ethos.

🚐 Entering the Serengeti: Dust, Scale, and a Complicated Visit to a Maasai Village

We left Octagon Lodge around 8:30am, heading deeper into the plains. The Serengeti is exactly what you imagine - endless, dusty, wide open, the light shifting across the land in refracted ribbons.

🦁 Day 1: Lions, Cheetahs, Jackals, and a Harsh Lesson

Once inside the Serengeti, the wildlife sightings came quickly:

• A pride of lions resting in the heat
• A coalition of three brother cheetahs
• Secretary birds striding like feathered bureaucrats
• Eagles scanning the plains
• A lion mating pair in the grass

But the moment that defined the day came unexpectedly.

We watched a jackal hunt and kill a newborn antelope, just minutes old, still unsteady in its first steps. The parents tried to defend it, circling and charging, but the jackal persisted. Nature didn’t soften the scene for us. It was difficult to watch and a good reminder of how brutal life can be in some of the wildest places on Earth.

We reached Heritage Camp that night. Our first impression was lukewarm, but as darkness fell and the sounds of hyenas echoed across the plains, the camp took on a more atmospheric feel. Sometimes comfort and character do not arrive at the same time and this place had plenty of the latter.

🐆 Day 2: Leopard Cubs, Lion Kings, and a Cheetah Kill

Day 2 was nonstop:

• Hot air balloons floating at sunrise
• Leopard cubs playing on a rocky outcrop, mother hidden away
• Four male lions lounging together
• Three cubs warming themselves on the road
• A huge pride resting under a single tree
• A cheetah seconds after a successful hunt

Later in the day a group of elephants reacted to bee stings and one of them hesitated and studied us in a way that made its intentions unclear. The driver put the car in reverse and floored it.

Overall, it was one of the richest wildlife days we have ever experienced. A day where wonder outweighed anything else.

🦛 Day 3: Hippo Pools and an Evening of Dance

It was a long day of travel as we left central Serengeti for the north. The road to the north was no less exciting and raw with the presence of wildlife. We passed a pride that had just killed two zebras, including a pregnant female. The vultures and jackals were already in position ready to make use of what the lions left behind.

We continued on to the hippo pools, dozens of hippos piled together in the murky water napping, snorting, nudging.

By evening we arrived at our next camp and watched a local acrobatics group perform. It lightened what had been a heavy morning.

🦓 Day 4: The Great Migration Crossing - Awe and Unease

This was the day we had pinned so much hope on: seeing the wildebeest cross the Mara River. A bucket list item for everyone who comes to the Serengeti but one that only a few ever get to see. And we did - but it wasn’t the experience we imagined.

We got near the banks of the river and waited. Shortly after, the first herd of wildebeest approached, hesitated, and turned back several times because vehicles were too close. When it seemed like the herd was ready to cross, more trucks came over spooking the animals. This happened for a while until the herd finally crossed. Descriptions do little justice to a herd of 5,000+ wildebeest crossing the river. When about half the herd had crossed, a cluster of trucks repositioned themselves right at the crossing point and the herd panicked. Many turned around, trying to reunite with the rest of their group. We stayed put, resisting the urge to chase the perfect vantage point. It was intense, to say the least, to see thousands of animals crossing back to reunite with the herd and go through the treacherous process of crossing the river filled with crocodiles yet again. The toll was visceral and visible.

That day, so many wildebeest were killed that it seemed like the crocodiles were hunting for sport and not food. The river was filled with wildebeest bodies and you could see the sky filled with vultures in a column mile high.

This wasn’t the migration of documentaries anymore. This was a migration navigating traffic and humans. We felt lucky to witness it but also deeply uneasy by how clearly tourism was impacting an already stressful and dangerous event for these animals.

Reflections

We left the Serengeti with mixed emotions. The wildlife was extraordinary and we are grateful to have seen it. At the same time, the crowding and pressure from tourism were undeniable. Much has changed even since 2018 and the Serengeti now feels closer to a managed wildlife exhibition than the wilderness it once was. We were glad to go once. We also knew we would likely not return in the same format, because the experience no longer aligns with our travel ethos.

Tanzania had been on our list for years as one of those iconic trips you imagine long before you ever set foot there. But as we learned quickly, “iconic” doesn’t always mean “easy,” and our Northern Circuit experience unfolded with both beauty and complexity from the very first night.

✈️ Getting There: Istanbul Layover, Turkish Airlines, and a 3:30am Arrival

We flew Turkish Airlines and had a quiet, efficient overnight connection through Istanbul. The lounge hotel was a welcome break, the flight was smooth, and the only real miss was the onboard food, which was… forgettable. But the rest of the service made up for it.

Pro tip: if you have a long layover in Istanbul, you can reserve a bed in the business lounge. It was clean and comfortable! Highly recommended after a 13h flight.

We landed in Arusha around 1:30am and didn’t reach the hotel until nearly 3:30. That late, you’re not looking for magic - just a bed

🌿 Arusha National Park

By 9:00 am we were up, sorting out logistics and meeting our guide. Arusha National Park is often overlooked, but it’s a perfect introduction with its light driving, gentle landscapes, and wildlife that eases you in without overwhelming you.

We saw giraffe browsing on acacias, warthogs darting through grass, buffalo resting in the shade, and crowned cranes gliding low over the plains. A ranger led walk took us close to a group of giraffe and into buffalo territory. A young trainee ranger joined us. He was full of enthusiasm, peppering us with facts, thrilled to be out in the bush.

🐘 Tarangire: The Elephant Kingdom

The next morning we left Arusha behind and headed to Tarangire National Park, which is famous for elephants, and for very good reason.

Within minutes of entering the park, zebra and elephant herds crossed our path. We stopped by a river for lunch and watched a family of elephants play in the water. The babies rolled and climbed over each other with clumsy joy. Later, we saw a lion and lioness tucked into the shade, blissfully uninterested in us. But the moment we’ll never forget came at the end of the day:

We had paused to watch a few elephants near the road when suddenly the bush came alive. Nearly 50 males - huge, powerful bulls - thundered across the road both in front of us and behind us. Something had spooked them and we were surrounded on all sides. It was breathtaking.

🌅 Burunge Lodge: A Quiet Place to Exhale near Tarangire

Burunge Lodge was exactly what we needed. Simple, warm, grounded and the kind of place where you can sit on your porch and watch elephants graze across the plains. Sunrise over the dried out Lake Burunge was worth the early wake up.

🐒 Lake Manyara

Our day at Lake Manyara was a blend of beautiful landscapes, wildlife sightings.

The morning began with soft light over the lake and peaceful views from the lodge. During the drive we saw baboons everywhere, hippos submerged in the lake, and an impressive range of birdlife sweeping low over the water.

When people think of “Indian” food, they tend to picture creamy curries, naan, and vindaloo. But what about the vibrant, spice forward, coconut and tamarind rich flavors of Tamil Nadu and Sri Lanka? Those cuisines have long been overlooked outside of home kitchens. Partly because they’ve been presented as too rustic or too specific to translate for a wider audience. Paradise changes that.

What makes Paradise special isn’t just the food - though the food is superb - but how it makes these traditions feel both elevated and welcoming. Their prix fixe tasting menu at £72 (and £49 wine pairing), at an impressively reasonable price for London, invites diners to explore the depth of South Asian cuisine beyond clichés, in a setting that’s refined yet warm.

We skipped the wine pairing (not wanting to make our first-night jet lag worse) and while there was some FOMO seeing how thoughtful it looked, the Nuwara-Eliya tea at the end was so good, it felt like the right call. Another charming touch: the cutlery tucked neatly into drawers at each table, which was a quiet sign of just how much thought goes into the experience.

What’s most meaningful here is how seamlessly the menu brings together refinement and comfort. Each dish feels like something you could imagine at a family table and each reinterpreted with craft and care.

📖 The Menu, Dish by Dish

Rasam
A bright, tangy sweet broth of Kentish strawberry and calamansi leaf oil. Light and spicy, it woke up the palate and set the tone beautifully; a humble but perfect start. Substituting the traditional tamarind with strawberry might sound scandalous, but it worked - and worked very well.

Raa Kade Roll
A crispy smoked manioc roll with parsley aioli, sambol, and roasted peanuts (a nod to street food, crunchy and flavorful). The infusion is great too - raa, the local term for toddy, brings a subtle complexity.

Kimbula Banis
Sweet–savory with a twist on the Sri Lankan “crocodile bun”: green chilli custard, kithul (palm syrup) glaze, date & lime chutney, and a bit of cheese. Playful, unexpected, and distinctly Sri Lankan.

Paan
A homey, comforting bite of russet potato + urud dhal vadai, with cashew cream and caramelized onion sambol. Familiar flavors made elegant.

Kiri-Hodi ⭐️ Highlight
Luxurious and layered without being heavy. Diver scallops from Orkney with roasted roe, native lobster kothu, and delicate wild garlic oil. The creamy, coconut-rich sauce, which is a hallmark of Sri Lankan cooking perfectly balanced seafood sweetness and the soft richness of the egg hopper. A dish that captures what makes Paradise special: respectful of tradition but confidently inventive.

Kothu
Their take on the iconic street dish. The cuttlefish kothu with carrot, crab curry, chilli sambol, and a cacao-cured egg yolk. Smoky, spicy, and deeply satisfying.

Mas ⭐️ Highlight
Tender lamb (Otter Valley Hebridean hogget) beautifully spiced but never overwhelming. What really elevated it were the accompaniments: coconut rice, rhubarb lunumiris, and beetroot curry, making the plate feel whole rather than just “meat on a plate.”

Wattalappam Choux ⭐️ Highlight
Clever and comforting, this dish consisted of house made choux with cardamom ice cream, ghee caramel, and Ceylon arrack hot chocolate. Wattalappam, a traditional Sri Lankan custard, reimagined as a pastry everyone could connect to.

Mihiri
A final little bite of paneer & Tunworth cheese cornetto with sea buckthorn muscat - alongside that unforgettable tea.

🍴 Why Paradise Matters

For anyone looking to expand their idea of South Asian food beyond the usual clichés, Paradise offers an approachable, elegant way in. The menu honors the deep cultural and culinary roots of Sri Lanka, with a nod to its ties to Tamil cuisine (both rooted in coconut, curry leaves, tamarind, rice, and careful spice work), and frames them in a way that feels fresh and exciting to London diners.

This meal felt like a conversation between cultures and eras with old flavors & new techniques, and that’s exactly what makes it resonate.

🌟 Why We Loved It

• The prix fixe menu is generous, thoughtful, and an incredible value for London.

• Each dish tells a story and even if you’ve never tasted these flavors before, they feel approachable and satisfying.

• It manages to feel “elevated” without losing its soul - familiar enough to feel like home and simultaneously inventive enough to surprise you.

• Thoughtful details such as the cutlery drawers and the quality of the tea show just how much care has gone into the experience.

🌿 Morning: Clapham, Venn Street Market, and Trooping Surprises

We set out in the morning to catch the Saturday-only Venn Street Market in Clapham. It’s small but well curated, with local producers and makers. (Open Saturdays, 10am to 3pm)

Getting there: We took the Bakerloo Line from Charing Cross to Elephant & Castle and then switched to the Northern Line. A small but important note: the Northern Line splits into two branches, so check your train is heading to Clapham Common.

On the way out of the hotel, we saw the police horses out and getting ready for Trooping the Colour - a fun surprise. If you’re lucky, you might catch them during one of your trips too since they are stabled right next door.

Venn Street Market is right outside the tube station, and though compact, it’s packed with charm. Fresh produce, artisanal food, and a sprinkling of crafts.

What we picked:

• Scotch egg from Finest Fayre - perfectly done.

• Empanada from Chango - flaky and satisfying.

• Doughnut from Flavors of Portugal - soft and not overly sweet.

But the real star? Chilli Brothers’ hot sauces. We brought back three bottles (mango habanero, Dutch curry, and thyme & lime). For the brave, their Red Hot and Naga bottles are delicious but fiery; the kind of spice that earns bragging rights but still tastes great.

🥙 Lunch: Bababoom Kebabs and a Walk Through Clapham Common

After the market, we wandered around Clapham Common. Plenty of greenery, lots of families, and even some charming mews apartments we paused to admire (window shopping, of course, since the prices are not much kinder than San Francisco).

For lunch, we headed to Bababoom, known for its kebabs. We were excited to try their house beer brewed with Persian limes, but sadly they were out that day.

What we ordered:

• Chicken shish plate - flavorful and juicy.

• Falafel plate - the sweet potato hummus (not a typo) was the real standout here.

Oh and, for those of you runners out there, Bababoom has a run club. 10 miles from one location to another for free kebabs. You truly run for your food.

Satisfied and slightly sun-kissed, we strolled over to Clapham Junction to catch the Overground back to Waterloo and then the Tube to the hotel.

🫖 Afternoon Tea at Corinthia: A Theatrical Prelude

Since our Hadestown show was at 7:30 and would run about three hours, we wanted to eat beforehand. Many restaurants near the theatres offer pre-theatre prix fixe menus, but we opted for something different: afternoon tea at the Corinthia, just next door to our hotel.

Why this is worth it: Afternoon tea is a great way to experience the décor, hospitality, and food of a luxury hotel without the commitment of staying there. And the Corinthia really delivered. It is the best afternoon tea we’ve ever had, hands down.

Pro tip: Pace yourself - one of us overindulged in the (excellent) savory sandwiches before realizing there were still scones and desserts to come.

What stood out:

• Egg and turkey sandwiches - memorable.

• Iron Buddha tea - our favorite of the four we tried. (Side note: there’s also a boba shop in LA that does a stellar Iron Buddha milk tea but more on that in another post.)

• You can splurge even further with a caviar or champagne upgrade.

We skipped the extras but left happy, full, and in a good enough food coma to carry us through the evening.

🎭 Hadestown at the Lyric Theatre

We walked over to the Lyric Theatre and arrived around 7pm, playbills in hand (note: in the West End you usually have to buy these). A couple of overpriced bottles of water later, we settled in.

Our thoughts:

• The Lyric is smaller and more intimate than many Broadway houses, which made the show feel even more immersive.

• The staging was clever with concentric circles in the floor that worked beautifully.

• The cast was superb, with Chris Jarmin as Hades stealing the show with his range and presence.

When booking, we recommend the dress circle for the best views. This section is better than stalls, grand circle, balcony, or even the box seats (though the box does offer privacy). We used SeatPlan to check sightlines before booking and ended up with some of the best seats in the house.

We left feeling that choosing the West End over Broadway for Hadestown was the right call - it was magical.

🍸 Nightcap: 40 Elephants and Sibin

Back at the hotel, we capped the night with drinks at 40 Elephants and then the hidden Sibin speakeasy.

At 40 Elephants - the bar that first drew us to this hotel on a previous trip - we enjoyed thoughtfully made cocktails in a period correct atmosphere with drinks that were an ode to the ladies of the 40 Elephants gang. Their menu has a help diamond of taste profiles to help you choose the drinks.

After a drink each there, we ducked into Sibin, which has a secret entrance and a clever little switch you flip to get in.

Highlights at Sibin:

• Charcuterie plate - simple and good.

• World-class whiskey selection with themed tastings (by geography, age, smokiness, etc.) if you’re inclined.

• Creative cocktails - including one with an edible bubble, which the bartender even let us try to make ourselves since it was a quiet night.

Another reason we’re so fond of this hotel: the staff are exceptional and made the experience feel personal and fun.

We requested a later checkout for the next morning, happily tired after a day that balanced markets, meadows, theatre, and speakeasies.

🖼️ The Victoria & Albert Museum: A Little Bit of Everything
We started the morning at the Victoria and Albert Museum, which really does have something for everyone. Admission is free (always welcome), though special exhibitions cost extra.

• We particularly enjoyed the cultural artifacts and the collection of Rodin sculptures, really impressive.

• There’s a decent café for a quick bite, but if you can, walk around the corner to Farm Girl for something better.

• On a warm day, the fountain outside is perfect for people-watching or reading while children splash in the water.

We took the District Line to get there, easy and direct.

🌳 Hyde Park: Taking It Slow
After the museum, we walked over to Hyde Park and made a day of it. Spending the afternoon here was a good call, leisurely walking in the shade and enjoying the breeze before the heat wave truly set in.

• Yes, Hyde Park is more touristy than Regent’s Park, but still very much worth it.

• Regent’s Park’s south side was under construction anyway, so Hyde Park won by default.

• Swimming, boating, cafés, long paths — it’s an escape from the bustle of Central London.

We stayed on our feet, hydrated often, and let the pace of the park dictate ours.

🫖 Fortnum & Mason: Tea, Biscuits, and Retail Therapy
Later, we stopped at Fortnum & Mason to “just pick up a few teas,” which, unsurprisingly, turned into a bit more.

We left with:

• Lapsang Souchong

• Rwanda Orange Pekoe

• Summer iced tea infusion

• Pistachio & clotted cream biscuits

• Dark chocolate macadamia biscuits (a perennial favorite)

A little retail therapy never hurt anyone, and their teas remain reliably excellent. Sometimes, concierge travel advice means affirming something touristy is actually worth it and this is one of those times.

🏨 A Pause Before Dinner
We walked our wares back to the hotel, rested our feet, and freshened up before heading out for dinner, which turned out to be one of the most interesting meals of the trip.

🍢 Dinner at Junsei (Marylebone): The Yakitori Hunt
For dinner, we decided on Junsei, recommended to us during London Restaurant Festival. Here’s the thing: there’s no shortage of sushi and omakase coverage these days, but finding a solid yakitori spot is much harder.

We’re big fans of Rintaro in San Francisco, so when we saw what Junsei had to offer, we jumped at the chance.

It was a quick ride on the Bakerloo Line from Charing Cross. We decided to get off a few stops early to walk the edge of Regent’s Park into Marylebone. Even with the construction, alternate paths had been set up and it made for a pleasant stroll. Just as we arrived, it started raining, giving us the full London summer experience.

At Junsei, we opted to order à la carte rather than the chef’s dinner. Junsei is one of those places we’re glad we tried and will recommend to others to experience at least once, but we’re not necessarily in a hurry to return. The search for London’s perfect yakitori continues.

Highlights from the meal:

• Chicken skin chips, absolutely delicious and worth the visit just for these.

• Tsukune (chicken meatballs)

• Okra, never before have we had this at a yakitori place. Other spots should take a note

• Chicken nanban

• Short rib donabe

After dinner, we made our way back to the hotel, happy with a day that balanced culture, quiet, and culinary exploration.

At SFO, we popped into the United Club at the G gates. If you’re wondering, it’s not bad. The staff is excellent, the food is decent, but the space itself is dated and, as usual, packed. If you’re not set on sitting inside, it’s worth grabbing a quick bite at some of the other options at SFO. We picked Joe & The Juice, especially because United was still clawing back from its catering issues due to provider changes. While it wouldn’t have affected international flights, we just wanted to make sure we had a little more control.

Boarding was delayed due to a technical issue after the crew boarded. United swapped in another plane quickly, and we were on our way with only a 90-minute delay, which was not bad at all. The Air India crash news was breaking while we were still at the airport, which was sobering and made us quietly grateful to arrive safely.

The flight itself was smooth.

London Day 1: Getting Right Into It, The Perfect Way to Dust Off Potential Jet Lag

🛬 Landing at LHR T2: How to Make It Easier

• We landed at Heathrow’s Terminal 2, a terminal we know well. Here’s the thing: the walk from your gate to immigration is long. At a relaxed pace you’re looking at 20–25 minutes. If you’re really moving it, you can shave it down to 15–20.

• If you can, use the lavatory on the plane just before landing. The first few bathrooms in the terminal tend to be mobbed, and the ones closer to immigration are usually emptier.

• Immigration lines depend on luck. We’ve breezed through in 15 minutes before, and waited as long as an hour and a half. This time, it wasn’t bad at 30 minutes in the staffed line because one of us couldn’t use the eGates. Helpful trick we learned (and will try next time): if you’re traveling with a mix of eGate-eligible and ineligible passports, you can ask to go through the family line. They might say no, but no harm asking. It’s usually much faster.

Oh, and as you exit, tucked off to the left is the arrivals lounge for United and Air Canada business-class and United Global Services passengers. Note this isn’t a Star Alliance Gold benefit, unfortunately. We didn’t qualify this time, but it’s actually a really nice perk if you do. There’s good food (the shakshuka is the standout), showers to freshen up, and they’ll even press two pieces of clothing for you while you eat. A great way to reset before heading into the city, especially if you’re arriving earlier in the morning.

🚇 Into London: Picking the Right Route
We’ve tested just about every way to get into Central London:

• Uber or taxi: expensive (£80+) and often slower in traffic.

• Heathrow Express: fast, pricey (£25+), and only gets you as far as Paddington.

• Piccadilly Line (blue): older cars, but connects directly to King’s Cross/St. Pancras and the north and east.

• Elizabeth Line (purple): modern, smooth, affordable, and reaches the heart of Central London.

We recommend the Elizabeth Line if you’re headed anywhere in Central London. The newer cars are a breath of fresh air, and it costs a fraction of an Uber (~£14 vs £80+). If you’re going farther north or east, like King’s Cross or beyond, then the Piccadilly Line might actually save you a transfer (and is even cheaper at ~£6). That being said, always check Google Maps when you land. It will usually give you the fastest option at that moment.

Give yourselves another 20–25 minutes to get to the Tube stations. Simple as following the signs but depending on bags, elevator and escalator traffic will likely delay you. And as always please Mind The Gap.

📍 A few tips for the Tube:

• Tap in and out with a credit card that has no foreign transaction fees. No need for an Oyster card.

• Escalators can be long. Lead your bag ahead of you so it doesn’t catch behind you, and stand to the right if you’re not walking.

• Google Maps shows you walking routes inside stations, and those are almost always the most efficient path. Still, allow an extra 5–10 minutes if changing lines at bigger stations like Tottenham Court Road or Charing Cross.

We took the Elizabeth Line to Tottenham Court Road and walked a few minutes to Turpan, our go-to spot for Uyghur food.

🍜 Lunch: Turpan
Our friend introduced us to Turpan back in 2023, and we make it a point to come every visit because it’s warm, casual, and consistently good. We ordered beef qoruma chop, fried rice noodles with chicken, and Cokes. A touch saltier than usual this time, but exactly what you want after a long flight.

🏨 First Time at Great Scotland Yard
After lunch, we headed back to Tottenham Court Road, switched to the Northern Line, and got off at Embankment. From there it was a short walk to our hotel: Great Scotland Yard, our first time staying here.

Check-in was seamless, with a warm welcome and some nice little touches, like wooden keys, which we liked. The room on the 5th floor wasn’t large, this is London, but smartly designed, with a separate shower and toilet, clever hidden storage in the bookshelf, and a very comfortable bed.

A couple notes for fellow travelers:

• The “fridge” is more of a chilling tray. Ask if you need a real fridge.

• Tea selection was underwhelming. We always peek at the tea wherever we stay, and this was forgettable.

We’d absolutely stay here again. It’s comfortable, well-run, and feels tucked away while still being central.

🍩 Bonus: Bombolone Doughnuts
On our way out to dinner we stopped by Bombolone Doughnuts (21 Whitcomb St.). Honestly, we didn’t expect them to have much left — it was late in the afternoon — but luck was on our side. A large order had canceled, so they still had plenty of stock and even threw in a couple extra. Well worth the hype, and the pistachio doughnut is certainly the best thing on the menu.

We finished the night at Paradise, which deserves its own post, coming up next.

🤔 Why This Trip Was Pricier, and Why That’s Okay
One last note: we inadvertently booked during a peak period, a combination of our schedules, London Tech Week & the summer London Restaurant Festival (which we knew about), and the Trooping the Colour ceremony (which we didn’t know about). That meant higher prices and fuller flights than if we’d planned with more flexibility. That said, we still optimized with points and were happy with how it worked out. In fact, we wanted to be there during Restaurant Festival to give you the best reviewed trip. If you’ve got flexibility, you can definitely save more than we did by avoiding those weeks. And that’s also why you have us: so you can still get the best out of it even when it’s busy.

✈️ Getting There & Settling In

We flew United from SFO to Heathrow (T2) and no upgrade this time (busy summer flights), but a smooth enough journey despite a short delay. At SFO, we grabbed Joe & The Juice over the crowded United Club. At Heathrow, expect a long walk (20–25 minutes) to immigration, and variable wait times (we clocked 30 minutes this trip).

From T2, we recommend the Elizabeth Line into Central London. It is fast, modern, and affordable. Tap in and out with a no-foreign-fee credit card, no need for Oyster.

Before even checking in, we stopped for lunch at Turpan, a favorite Uyghur spot near Tottenham Court Road that is casual, hearty, and perfect after a flight.

Then we made our way to the hotel – Great Scotland Yard – tucked away but central, with thoughtful design and excellent service. Rooms are small (it’s London) but smartly laid out and very comfortable.

Day 1: Arrival & First Tastes

After settling in, we wandered a bit and picked up Bombolone Doughnuts on Whitcomb Street that was still stocked late in the day thanks to a canceled order. The pistachio doughnut is a must.

Dinner that night was at Paradise (more on that in the subscriber post), then a quiet night to recover from the journey.

Day 2: Museums, Parks & Yakitori

We started at the Victoria & Albert Museum, one of our favorites for its mix of art and design (and free admission). Then we walked through Hyde Park, soaking in the summer air and slowing down after a busy Day 1.

In the afternoon, we made a tea and biscuit stop at Fortnum & Mason (a little retail therapy we never regret) before resting back at the hotel.

Dinner was at Junsei, a yakitori spot in Marylebone. Highlights included the chicken skin chips, tsukune, okra, and short rib donabe. Worth trying once, though our hunt for London’s perfect yakitori continues.

Day 3: Clapham, Afternoon Tea & Theatre

We ventured south to Clapham, starting with the Saturday-only Venn Street Market, which is a compact but full of great finds (don’t miss Chilli Brothers’ hot sauces). After a walk through Clapham Common, we had lunch at Bababoom, known for juicy kebabs and a fun, low-key vibe.

Back in Central London, we indulged in afternoon tea at the Corinthia Hotel (easily the best we’ve had in London) before heading to the Lyric Theatre for Hadestown. The West End production felt intimate and magical, with superb staging and performances.

We ended the night back at the hotel with drinks at 40 Elephants and the hidden speakeasy Sibin, which boasts an incredible whisky selection and playful cocktails.

Last Day: Covent Garden & Heading Home

We wrapped up with breakfast at Dishoom in Covent Garden — still solid, though our excitement for it has faded over the years. Sunday morning in Covent Garden was surprisingly serene, making it a nice final stroll before heading to Heathrow.

📌 Pro Tips

• At SFO: Joe & The Juice > United Club during peak times.
• At Heathrow T2: long walk & immigration wait — use plane lav before landing.
• Mixed-passport group? Politely ask about the family line.
• Tube > taxi – faster, cheaper, and more comfortable.
• Tap with your credit card, no need for Oyster.
• Pack an umbrella even in summer – London weather is unpredictable.
• Afternoon tea is a great way to experience a luxury hotel without staying there.
• For theatres, you’ll usually need to buy a playbill – about £5.